Is living in Buenos Aires really the affordable South American dream everyone claims? Will you feel safe walking around with your phone out? Do you actually need to speak Spanish?

I had these exact questions before moving here. Two months later, I can tell you this: Buenos Aires is cheaper than New York but more expensive than you think. It’s safer than I expected but requires street smarts. And yes, Spanish is absolutely essential.

After 60 days living in Buenos Aires, walking hundreds of miles through neighborhoods most tourists never see, and spending more than I budgeted, I’m sharing everything I wish someone had told me before I arrived.

Arrival: First Impressions of Living in Buenos Aires

October 3rd. The moment I stepped outside the airport, I noticed the clean air and immediately felt I was somewhere different. My girlfriend (who’s Argentine) met me at the airport, and we headed straight to our Airbnb on the Palermo/Almagro border. That first night was my real introduction to life in Buenos Aires.

Our first stop was El Ateneo Gran Splendid—the famous bookstore inside a converted theater. Walking down Avenida Santa Fe to get there, I was struck by how much it reminded me of New York: wide sidewalks, tree-lined streets, shops everywhere. But then we entered El Ateneo, and a violinist was playing “Por una Cabeza.” Standing in this stunning theater-turned-bookstore with tango music echoing through the space, I realized I wasn’t in New York at all.

That night, we walked down Avenida 9 de Julio to see the Obelisco up close. The buildings around it looked French, but the electronic billboards and bright lights gave it a Times Square vibe. Here’s what nobody mentions: I felt nervous taking out my phone. I’d heard so many warnings about phone theft in Buenos Aires that I kept it tucked away those first days, even though people around me were using theirs casually.

Morning soundtrack bonus: The cotorras (parrots) and hornero birds become your natural alarm clock. Their singing gets stuck in your head and quickly becomes part of everyday living in Buenos Aires.

Week One of Living in Buenos Aires: Learning the Rhythm

My first real Argentine breakfast was at La Bautista on Avenida Medrano and Lavalle: medialunas con jamón y queso with a cortado. These ham and cheese croissants are everywhere, and this combo became my regular order during my first month living in Buenos Aires.

Walking through Palermo that first week, I noticed something nobody warns you about: dog poop on the sidewalks. It’s just part of life here. There aren’t dog-waste stations like in some other countries, and you’ll see some trash near bins. Honestly though, the city was cleaner than I expected—cleaner than parts of Italy, for sure.

Palermo Soho: Cheto, Cobblestones & Aperol

Palermo Soho quickly became my favorite area. The cobblestone streets around Plaza Serrano (Plaza Cortázar) are filled with boutiques, wine shops, bars, and restaurants. This is what porteños call a cheto area—basically, bougie.

We sat outside for an Aperol Spritz. Cost: 8,000 ARS, about $5–6 USD. Later I learned a money lesson that matters if you’re living in Buenos Aires on a budget: the exact same drink in Barrio Chino (Belgrano) cost me 3,500 ARS ($2.50–3) and tasted just as good. Palermo always comes with a premium price tag.

While sitting outside, one or two people walked by trying to sell things or asking for money. This happens often and they’re generally not aggressive—just part of the street life when you’re out and about living in Buenos Aires.

Eating at 10 PM: Normal Life in Buenos Aires

That Saturday night, we went to Gianni’s Social Club for Italian food. I ordered sorrentinos in red sauce, and my girlfriend got cacio e pepe—which they prepared tableside inside a wheel of cheese, lighting it on fire and serving her pasta directly from it. We arrived at 8:30 PM, and the restaurant was almost empty even though it was fully booked.

Where was everyone? They were all scheduled for 10 PM.

By the time we finished around 10, the place was packed. This is Argentina—dinner starts at 9–10 PM, sometimes later. Coming from the U.S. (6–8 PM dinners) and Italy (8–9 PM), this took adjustment. Two months of living in Buenos Aires later, I was eating at 10:30 PM like it was totally normal.

The Architecture of Living in Buenos Aires: European Style, Latin Soul

One of the most beautiful walks in Buenos Aires is from Congreso to Plaza de Mayo along Avenida de Mayo. The architecture here tells the story of the city’s immigrant history and is a must if you’re traveling to Buenos Aires or planning on living here.

Recoleta and Retiro feel distinctly French. Montserrat, San Nicolás, and San Telmo mix Spanish and Italian styles—think Madrid meets Rome with cobblestones. The Microcentro area reminded me of New York with Broadway-style theaters, electronic billboards, and American fast food chains mixed with French buildings.

Café Tortoni: Living in Buenos Aires Through Its Cafés

Café Tortoni, opened in 1858, is the classic tourist café—but also a piece of living history. Walking in feels like stepping into Vienna’s Café Central. You wait in line outside (security controls entry), but it moves quickly. Inside: marble tables, classic decor, and old-world atmosphere.

I ordered an Irish coffee – cream, whiskey, cinnamon. I’ve been to Ireland and had the real thing, so I expected a “tourist” version at best. I was wrong. This was one of the best Irish coffees I’ve ever had, and at 10,000 ARS ($7.50), it felt worth it. I’ve seen Irish coffees elsewhere in the city for 6,000–7,000 ARS, but Tortoni’s quality justified the price.

Downside: the churros and medialunas were just okay. At around $1.30 each, you can find better elsewhere when you’re actually living in Buenos Aires and trying multiple spots.

Plaza de Mayo: Emotional Center of Life in Buenos Aires

Plaza de Mayo is one of the most impressive capital city plazas I’ve seen anywhere. French and Spanish architecture surrounds it, with palm trees scattered around. The Casa Rosada (Pink House) is Argentina’s presidential palace which dominates the view. I learned it was supposedly once painted using cow’s blood mixed into the paint.

The Cabildo museum, national banks, cathedral, and massive Argentine flag complete the scene. Standing here, after thinking about visiting for two years, was one of those moments that made living in Buenos Aires feel very real.

Month One of Living in Buenos Aires: Finding My Spots

By week two of living in Buenos Aires, I started developing routines. Parque Las Heras became my first regular park—big enough for sports, with people lying on the grass drinking mate and beautiful buildings in the distance. Plaza Armenia is great for dogs and kids, but not my favorite spot for a quiet relax.

Park Culture in Buenos Aires Is Next Level

One Saturday, we went looking for a quiet place to sit on the grass and drink mate. Parque Centenario was a bit too crowded. We walked through Caballito (which has really nice residential architecture) until we reached Parque Rivadavia.

This park blew me away. There’s a book market that runs every day—I’ve never seen such a dedicated book market inside a park before. There’s actual space to sit on the grass, drink mate, and relax. The Bolívar monument area is particularly nice, and there was a weekend market selling food, pizza, fresh juice, and more.

Here’s what impressed me about living in Buenos Aires: almost every park and plaza has markets on weekends. You’ll see them at Las Heras, Parque Rivadavia, Plaza Serrano—everywhere. The park and plaza culture here is elite. Rome has great parks, but Buenos Aires probably beats it in everyday usage and atmosphere.

Jardín Japonés and Jardín Botánico Thays

Foreigners pay around 13,500 ARS (about $10) to enter Jardín Japonés—the largest Japanese garden outside Japan. The zen music, koi ponds, and landscaping make it worth it, though you can walk it fairly quickly.

For a free alternative, Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays is beautiful and doesn’t cost anything. This is one of the advantages of living in Buenos Aires long term: you can explore both famous and quieter green spaces at your own pace.

The Nazi Tour: The Best Tour I’ve Done While Living in Buenos Aires

I’ve done great tours through GetYourGuide in Budapest, Vienna, Morocco, and Greece. The Nazi history tour in Buenos Aires was the best I’ve experienced.

Our guide was extremely knowledgeable. We started at Luna Park, where he showed us photos of a massive Nazi rally held there in the 1930s. He explained how Argentina became a refuge for Nazi war criminals—including Adolf Eichmann, who lived in Buenos Aires and got coffee on Calle Lavalle at a German café we stood in front of.

Book it here: Nazi history walking tour in Buenos Aires on GetYourGuide.

We learned about Priebke, Mengele, Perón’s relationship with these refugees, and how this history still echoes in the city. Days after, I was still thinking about what we’d learned and watching the documentaries he recommended. If you’re into history, this is essential.

For more historical stops and tours, you can also check my roundup: Best history tours when you’re living in Buenos Aires.

San Telmo: History, Football, and Grit

November 9th was my first time walking down Calle Defensa, San Telmo’s main cobblestone artery. The architecture is a beautiful mix—European feeling with a strong Latin vibe that’s hard to compare exactly to any one place.

The Sunday market was packed but still walkable. We didn’t buy much, but I had one of the best fresh orange juices of my life from a stand. The side streets hide incredible street art and colonial houses. I discovered the Liniers Virrey house and learned—only then—that the British invaded Buenos Aires. Something I’d never heard about before actually living here.

Messi and Maradona murals are everywhere. If you love football, you’ll be in heaven. If you don’t, you still end up respecting the passion. In that sense, this part of living in Buenos Aires reminded me of Napoli in Italy.

Safety note: In my first week, I was hesitant to take my phone out in San Telmo. By month two, I felt comfortable filming along most of Defensa during the market, though I still put my phone away at the quieter ends of the street. That’s the balance when you’re living in Buenos Aires—aware, but not paranoid.

Month Two of Living in Buenos Aires: Deeper Discoveries

Barrio Inglés: Hidden Gem of Living in Buenos Aires

On November 2nd, I discovered Barrio Inglés in Caballito. Walking down Cachimayo Street felt like teleporting to London: cobblestones, English-style row houses, trees arching over the street, and a very safe, local atmosphere.

The free historic tranvía (tram) runs on weekends at 4 PM. You wait in line while volunteers explain the history in Spanish, then ride the original tram for about 20 minutes through the neighborhood. The fact that this is completely free still amazes me. Barrio Inglés instantly became one of my favorite barrios for anyone planning on living in Buenos Aires beyond the usual Palermo/Recoletta bubble.

Resource: You can use my free Google Maps guide with all my favorite spots marked: download my Buenos Aires map guide here (email signup).

Plaza Sicilia, Plaza Alemania & Jacaranda Season

By late October and November, the Jacaranda trees were blooming. Plaza Sicilia and Plaza Alemania became even more stunning with purple flowers everywhere. At Plaza Sicilia, there’s Selena café, which serves rich, good-quality coffee and food.

One thing you realize when you’re living in Buenos Aires: you will eat a lot of ham and cheese. In medialunas, sandwiches, empanadas – it’s everywhere. The ham and cheese tostado (toasted sandwich) that I had at Cafe Selena was one of the best I’ve had so far, which you can find a picture of in my google map guide of the city.

Walking Avenida del Libertador: Wealth and Contrast

Walking along Avenida del Libertador shows an extreme side of life in Buenos Aires. You’ll see mansions, embassies, Messi advertisements, endless biking and running paths, and group workout classes in the parks. It’s the wealthiest side of the city.

Then you reach Puente Figueroa Alcorta and suddenly see Villa 31, one of the informal settlements (villas). The contrast is intense: extreme wealth and poverty directly next to each other. It’s a visual reminder of Argentina’s complicated economic reality and something you only really grasp while living in Buenos Aires rather than just visiting.

Venturing to Provincia: Olivos and La Lucila

On November 28th, we took Bus 29A from Palermo to Olivos—a 55-minute ride that cost 450 ARS one way and 640 ARS back. In total, about $0.80 for the round trip.

Bus tip for living in Buenos Aires: You don’t necessarily need a SUBE card. You can tap your Visa or Mastercard when you board, tell the driver your destination, and he’ll charge the correct amount. I’d never seen this system before.

Olivos is a wealthy suburb with cobblestone streets and beautiful houses. The Puerto de Olivos wasn’t impressive—windy, trash along the shore, not much going on. But La Lucila, the next town over, was lovely. Walking to Paraná y el Río gave us a distant view of the Buenos Aires skyline, with locals fishing and hanging out.

Guillermo Rawson, the downtown street near the station, reminded me of North Jersey / NYC suburbs or some outer boroughs. Interestingly, food in Provincia was more expensive than in CABA. The German church and restaurants in Olivos and La Lucila are another glimpse into the immigrant layers you see when you’re living in Buenos Aires and exploring beyond the center.

The Real Cost of Living in Buenos Aires (2025)

Here’s what things actually cost during my two months living in Buenos Aires:

• Aperol Spritz: $5–6 in Palermo Soho, $2.50–3 in Belgrano
• Irish Coffee at Café Tortoni: $7.50
• Medialunas: $1–1.30 each
• Nice dinner for two (with wine): $50–80
• Higher-end night (Jazz Voyeur): about $100 for two
• Bus rides: $0.25–0.50 each way
• Uber across Palermo: $3–5
• Choripán on the street: $2–3
• Wine at supermarket: $3–5 for good bottles
• Ice cream (helado): $3–5 for a generous serving
• Airalo eSIM: $14.50 for 7 GB (first week) – get an Airalo eSIM here. If you want data the moment you land in Argentina, install an eSIM beforehand.
  Use code NEWTOAIRALO15 for 15% off
• Claro SIM: roughly $3–5 per month (few thousand pesos)

Budget reality of living in Buenos Aires: I planned for $1,200–1,500 per month and spent more. Buenos Aires is cheaper than major U.S. cities but more expensive than many people think for South America. It’s more expensive than Italy for coffee and pizza, about the same for pasta.

The key to affordable living in Buenos Aires is to eat at neighborhood spots, shop in local markets, use public transportation, and take advantage of promos (especially for cash payments).

Food Discoveries While Living in Buenos Aires

What I Loved

• Empanadas: Excellent at Andiamo and countless small spots.
• Milanesas: Breaded meat cutlets that are fantastic almost everywhere. Try milanesa napolitana. At El Banderín (a bar notable), we ordered a suprema milanesa napolitana for two with salad and fries, plus 4 liters of Andes Rubia beer. We stayed through dinner and added bife a caballo and matambre a la pizza. All of that cost 84,000 ARS (about $60 USD). For two people, that felt like a steal. They only accept debit or cash—no credit cards, which is common at old-school places.
• Vermouth: I tried it for the first time at Andiamo. Clean, soft, and a very “grown-up” local drink.
• Ice cream (helado): On par with Italian gelato in its own way. My favorite flavor is tramontana-think chocolate, cookie pieces, almost like cookie dough vibes. People buy helado by the kilo to bring home. So far my Argentine girlfriend and I like Nicolo Helado.
• Pizza: Good Napoletana-style slices at Andiamo and La Chopperia. Bar Roma (a bar notable off Avenida Córdoba) has amazing pizza and coffee.
• Choripán: The best one I had was a street choripán in La Boca, cooked right in front of us. My girlfriend insists street choripán beats restaurant versions, and she’s right.

What Disappointed Me

• Mostaza: Argentina’s fast-food chain. Overpriced and not good (about $25 for two people). I’d skip it.
• Parrillas (steakhouses): After two months of living in Buenos Aires, I still haven’t found a truly great parrilla. Given Argentina’s beef reputation, that surprised me. I’ll keep searching.
• Pasta: Quality is solid but often not al dente like in Italy, which for me is a downgrade.

Coffee Culture Tips for Living in Buenos Aires

• Jarrito: Basically an Americano, served in a tall, thin mug. I actually grew to like this style.
• Pocillo: Espresso shot.
• Cortado: Espresso with a bit of milk—my go-to order while living in Buenos Aires.
• Torrado vs. Tostado: Torrado is coffee roasted with sugar (a very Argentine thing). If you don’t want that, make sure to buy or ask for tostado instead.
• Cappuccinos: Often come with chocolate inside. Ask first if you prefer it normal.
• Café Martínez: Argentina’s answer to Starbucks, but cheaper and better. Good Wi-Fi and a reliable spot to work from.

Is Living in Buenos Aires Safe? My Honest Take

After two months, here’s my honest assessment: living in Buenos Aires is safer than I expected, but you still need street smarts and awareness. Read my new post all about safety in Buenos Aires here.

How My Perception Changed

• Week 1: Nervous taking my phone out in Microcentro, San Telmo, and around Plaza Congreso.
• End of Month 1: Starting to feel relaxed using my phone in most central areas.
• End of Month 2: Taking photos and videos freely in most neighborhoods, including San Telmo market, but still aware of surroundings.

The One Sketchy Experience

The only time I genuinely felt uncomfortable while living in Buenos Aires was walking around Abasto near Carlos Gardel’s house. There were guys doing drugs on the street, a woman yelling at them, and someone making a comment to my girlfriend about taking “too many photos.” We decided to leave quickly. Nothing happened, but it was the only moment that felt off.

General Safety Observations for Living in Buenos Aires

• Everyone uses their phones openly—on buses, in parks, at cafés. People sit with MacBooks out.
• We walked home at 3 AM in Palermo multiple times without issues.
• Police presence is strong. All-black uniforms and vehicles, motorcycle units, officers posted outside some buildings in the evening (especially in Palermo and Recoleta).
• Public transportation feels safe. Buses are packed and used at all hours.
• The main risks are pickpocketing and phone snatching, not violent crime.

Practical safety tip for living in Buenos Aires: Stay aware, keep valuables in a crossbody or inner pocket, avoid obviously flashing cash or phones in quieter areas, and trust your instincts. Don’t let fear stop you from enjoying the city.

For a deeper breakdown, see my guide: Is Buenos Aires safe? A local-style breakdown for travelers and nomads.

The Best & Worst Neighborhoods for Living in Buenos Aires (My Rankings)

My Favorite Barrios for Living in Buenos Aires

1. Palermo (especially Soho): Trendy, walkable, international, great food scene. More expensive but full of life.
2. Barrio Inglés (Caballito): Hidden gem. Beautiful, safe, authentic, and home to the free historic tram.
3. Recoleta: Elegant, French-style architecture, quieter streets, strong café culture.
4. Belgrano: Quieter, residential, slightly cheaper than Palermo, plus Barrio Chino.

Worth Visiting but Not My Home Base

• San Telmo: Historic, great for the Sunday market, tango, museums, and colonial architecture. Perfect for repeat visits while living in Buenos Aires.
• La Boca: Colorful and unique, but very touristy. Good to see Caminito once. The choripán is worth the stop.

Areas Where I Was More Cautious

• Plaza Congreso: Beautiful building, but the plaza itself feels sketchier and I used my phone less there.
• Abasto: Mall is great inside, but outside and the Carlos Gardel area require extra awareness.
• Puerto Madero: New and wealthy, but can feel sterile and not really my vibe for day-to-day living in Buenos Aires. However, it is nice to visit once or twice.

Practical Tips for Living in Buenos Aires Nobody Tells You

Transportation Tips

• Buses: Incredibly cheap ($0.25–0.50 per ride) and go everywhere. You can tap your credit card and tell the driver your destination.
• Subte (metro): Efficient and cheap, but I went two months without needing it. Walking and buses were enough for my lifestyle.
• Uber/Cabify: Rides are usually $3–5 within Palermo or between neighboring barrios.
• Bus 140: A good route if you want to pass the Obelisco and see the city on the cheap.

Money & Promos

• Promos everywhere: 2–3 medialunas with coffee, night deals on drinks and food. Check boards and fine print.
• Cards vs Cash: Most places accept cards, but cash often gets you a better deal. Some classic restaurants like El Banderín only take debit or cash—no credit.
• Groups eat better: Eating out in Argentina rewards groups of 2+ people. Promos and portions are designed for sharing, which stretches your budget when you’re living in Buenos Aires with someone else.
• Wine: Very affordable and good quality. $3–5 gets you a solid bottle in most supermarkets.

Phone & Internet for Living in Buenos Aires as a Digital Nomad

• Week 1: Get an Airalo eSIM ($14.50 for 7 GB). Use the code NEWTOAIRALO15 for a 15% discount. More expensive than Europe, but perfect for landing and getting oriented.
• Long-term: Switch to a Claro SIM (~$3–5/month), which can be activated as an eSIM too.
• Wi-Fi: Generally reliable in apartments and cafés in Palermo, Recoleta, and central barrios.

Food & Culture Details

• Government warnings on food packaging: Labels like “exceso de azúcar” and “exceso de sodio” are common and honestly impressive.
• Ham and cheese culture: You’ll see jamón y queso in nearly everything.
• Rappi: Food delivery service that’s cheap, fast, and full of promos.

Clothing & Style

• Dress however you want: Unlike some parts of Europe where people are more formally dressed, living in Buenos Aires feels more like the U.S. -casual is normal and nobody cares if you’re not dressed up.

Other Observations from Living in Buenos Aires

• Argentine flags everywhere: On houses, buildings, and businesses. Way more visible patriotism than I’ve seen in Italy, for example.
• Armenian community in Palermo: Around Plaza Armenia, you feel the Armenian presence.
• German influence: Churches and restaurants in Olivos and La Lucila hint at German immigration.
• Russian Orthodox Church: Across from Parque Lezama—a beautiful and unexpected sight.

FAQs About Living in Buenos Aires

How much does it cost to live in Buenos Aires for two months?

Plan for around $2,400–3,000 for two months ($1,200–1,500 per month) for a comfortable lifestyle including rent, food, transport, and entertainment. It’s more expensive than many expect for South America but still cheaper than major U.S. or Western European cities, especially if you earn in USD or EUR.

Is living in Buenos Aires safe for digital nomads and solo travelers?

Yes, living in Buenos Aires is generally safe, especially in neighborhoods like Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano, and much of San Telmo. The main issues are petty crimes like pickpocketing and phone snatching. Use common sense, stay aware, and avoid empty streets late at night. I walked home at 3 AM in Palermo multiple times without problems.

Do you need to speak Spanish to live in Buenos Aires?

Yes. Spanish is essential for daily life in Buenos Aires. You can survive with basic Spanish at first, but most locals don’t speak English well. Argentine Spanish uses “vos” instead of “tú” and has its own slang (Lunfardo). The more Spanish you know, the better your experience and the easier it is to really live—not just visit—Buenos Aires.

What are the best neighborhoods for expats living in Buenos Aires?

Palermo Soho/Hollywood is the top choice for expats and digital nomads thanks to cafés, coworking spaces, and nightlife. Recoleta offers a more elegant, quiet feel. Belgrano is more residential and family-oriented but still well-connected. Barrio Inglés in Caballito is a hidden gem if you want a beautiful, safe, non-touristy neighborhood.

Can you drink tap water in Buenos Aires?

Yes, tap water in Buenos Aires is safe to drink. Some people don’t like the taste and prefer filtered or bottled water, but it meets health standards. Outside the city in more rural areas, always check with locals first.

How does public transportation work when you’re living in Buenos Aires?

Public transportation is excellent and very cheap. Buses (colectivos) cost about $0.25–0.50 per ride; you can tap a card or use a SUBE. The Subte (metro) is fast and affordable. Uber and Cabify are widely used. Most central neighborhoods are extremely walkable, which is one of the best parts of living in Buenos Aires.

What’s the food like if you’re living in Buenos Aires long term?

You’ll eat a lot of beef, milanesas, empanadas, pizza, pasta, and helado. The quality is generally high, especially at local, non-touristy spots. Wine is excellent and cheap. The only letdowns for me were some fast food chains and the fact that I still haven’t found a truly mind-blowing parrilla.

How expensive is Buenos Aires compared to Europe or the U.S.?

Buenos Aires is more expensive than many people expect for South America but cheaper than major cities like New York, London, or Paris. Coffee and pizza can be more expensive than in Italy; pasta is about the same. Dinners out, transport, and wine are where you really feel the value, especially if you’re earning in a stronger currency.

What’s the weather like when you’re living in Buenos Aires?

Buenos Aires has a humid subtropical climate with reversed seasons compared to the Northern Hemisphere. Spring (September–November) and fall (March–June) are the best times for living in Buenos Aires day to day. Late October and November are particularly beautiful because of the Jacaranda trees blooming purple across the city.

Final Thoughts: Would I Live in Buenos Aires Again?

Two months of living in Buenos Aires changed how I see the city. In the first week, I was anxious about phone theft and thrown off by the late dinners. By the end of month two, I was walking confidently, eating at 10:30 PM, and feeling genuinely sad about eventually leaving.

Buenos Aires is perfect for you if:

• You want European-style architecture and café culture at Latin American prices (with some exceptions).
• You’re willing to learn Spanish or already speak it.
• You appreciate world-class parks and green spaces in an urban environment.
• You love walkable cities with distinct neighborhoods.
• You want cultural depth—history, art, tango, football.
• You’re okay with some grit alongside the beauty.
• You want to live somewhere, not just pass through as a tourist.

It might not be for you if:

• You expect everything to be dirt cheap.
• You need perfectly clean sidewalks and German-style efficiency.
• You don’t want to learn any Spanish.
• You’re looking for a pure beach destination.
• You need everything to run on time and exactly as planned.

What surprised me most about living in Buenos Aires: the strength of the park culture, the genuine safety in most daily situations despite all the warnings, how quickly the city started to feel like home, and the architectural variety—from Barrio Inglés to Plaza de Mayo. Also: I still haven’t found the perfect parrilla.

What nobody prepared me for: the birds singing every morning, how late everyone really eats dinner, the book markets in parks, the fact that Argentine coffee can be roasted with sugar (torrado), how emotional I’d feel standing in Plaza de Mayo after thinking about coming for years, and how much better eating out is when you’re in a group taking advantage of promos and paying in cash.

Buenos Aires isn’t just the “Paris of South America.” After living in Buenos Aires for two months, I’d say it’s its own thing entirely—romantic, raw, frustrating, generous, and unforgettable.

Ready to experience Buenos Aires yourself?

• Download my free Buenos Aires Google Maps guide with cafés, restaurants, parks, and hidden gems organized by neighborhood.
• Book the Nazi history tour on GetYourGuide for the most impactful historical walking tour in the city.
• Get your Airalo eSIM here for reliable internet your first week while you settle in. Use the code NEWTOAIRALO15 for 15% off.
• Read my full Buenos Aires travel guide if you’re just visiting before deciding about living here.
• Check out my full Argentina travel guide hub if you are exploring other parts of the country.

Have questions about specific neighborhoods or living in Buenos Aires? Drop them in the comments—I read and respond to each one.

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